Silab, the French manufacturer of cosmetic active ingredients, has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed to address a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the cellular process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of cells.
Silab reports that a new modelling study of menopausal skin revealed a shortfall in ferritinophagy. Because this mechanism regulates iron delivery, its decline leaves skin without sufficient bioavailable iron — a condition the company associates with premature ageing. Silab calls the phenomenon metallo-aging and notes that ultraviolet radiation amplifies it: UV exposure encourages the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, prompting a massive and uncontrolled release of iron that generates pronounced oxidative stress.
Targeted mechanism
Metallomia is positioned to intervene at that point. Silab says the active restarts ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, helping to provide iron and to relaunch the main epidermal functions. By acting on iron/ferritin complexes and limiting their breakdown, the ingredient is also presented as a means of curbing oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. Through this targeted mechanism, the company states, metallo-aging is significantly reduced.
Reported study outcomes
The manufacturer cites results from volunteer studies. From 14 days of use, Caucasian volunteers showed revitalised skin, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When Caucasian volunteers applied the ingredient before UV exposure, Silab reports that lipid peroxidation was prevented and that the appearance of redness was limited within hours after exposure.
Marshmallow root sourcing
For the development of Metallomia, Silab examined the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company has established a traced supply chain with French partners; the supply has been validated against the criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To take advantage of the roots' mucilage content, Silab developed a specific enzyme engineering process for extracting polyuronides.
Formulation and compliance
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin, at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution, which the company describes as easy to formulate. Silab states that the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations, including those of Europe, the United States, China and Japan.